Vol. 32 No. 4 - Spring 2016
EDITOR: CHRISTIE STILSON
NEWS! Check out ISLAND JOURNEYS new website -- www.island-journeys.com! Now it is better than ever, featuring my favorite destination -- the islands of Hawai`i. Even more information is now available thru this website with destinations including Tahiti, Europe, the Caribbean and Mexico. Just enter the location that interests you, answer a few simple questions and your private tour guide, Nancy Herron, will help you plan a perfect itinerary for an awesome vacation or honeymoon. You’ll also find this newsletter on the site as ‘blog!’ Look for it under ABOUT or go the link that lists Hawaiian Islands and you can read the current issue or past there as well.
LAHAINA -- The Wharf Shopping Center professes to be Maui’s biggest food court and it’s true. There are some great restaurants here and some we like so much that we visit a couple of times on just one trip! Pho Saigon never disappoints us! Prices are still affordable ($12-16) for a large plate. My favorite Pad Thai on west Maui is served here with ‘real’ vegetables and not just noodles and sauce. The clay pot and curries are wonderful and nothing warms you up like a bowl of Pho on a winter night on Maui! The green papaya salad is one of the best I’ve had. Lower level Wharf Cinema and Shopping Center.
Cool Cats, on the upper level of the Wharf Shopping Center, still have great burgers plus live music in the evening. Check the local publications for a coupon good for a free root beer float with purchase of sandwich, burger or entrée.
There was a cute little Thai restaurant tucked toward the back by the bus stop at the Wharf Center. The food was good, but the ambiance was lacking (picture plastic tablecloths). The manager turned owner moved the restaurant around the corner and has named it Tiki Tiki Thai. This is a case where you can’t judge a book by its cover. It looks beautiful with lots of bamboo and you can see the chefs behind the low wall in chef coats! The prices are about 30% higher than the former location. Skeptical, we still gave them a try. The Pad Thai was just sauce and noodles and the lemongrass pineapple chicken needs a new name. The pieces of pineapple were small and there were about six of them. The black pepper overpowered any of the lemongrass flavor and the service was not just slow but horrible. When they brought us the wrong dish they even got a little nasty and insisted it was ours. (It turned out it was ordered by the table next to us.) The following night we went next door to Pho Saigon and had a fabulous meal.
The same owner of Tiki Tiki Thai has now opened a new Japanese restaurant in the old Thai location (in the back near the bus stop). Not sure I’m going to give it a try.
Captain Jack’s is on the upper level (separate stairs) next to the Wharf and is run by the same folks that operate Cool Cats. If you are hungry mid-day they have one of the best Happy Hour menus. A calamari or pulled chicken taco ($3), fish taco ($5) plus crab cakes, sliders, fish and chips and other options all under $10. Happy Hour drinks, too! These daily specials are from 2pm-5pm. If you come for regular lunch or dinner you can use one of the local coupons for a free calamari appetizer or free dessert with the purchase of two meals. (808) 667-0988. (Tip: lots of business card/coupons on the counters of the boats moored at Lahaina Harbor.)
The Dirty Monkey is now in the former Moose McGillicuddy upstairs location on Front Street. It’s one of the few bars open late. They promise a fine selection of liquors (especially whiskey). I peeked in and it was definitely a bar scene and was packed. There is a small food menu.
The largest organic dragon fruit farm in the United States is located just outside of Lahaina. The fruit is not only delicious but beautiful and nutritious. There are a variety of species and each looks beautiful but somehow dangerous! The farm started in 2009 up above Luaniupoko Beach just a few miles south of Lahaina. These plants have a nocturnal blossom. While the fruit bat normally does the pollination there are none of those mammals on Maui so in the dark the plants are manually pollinated. The plants begin to ripen in July and continue thru December. On the tour you may see a variety of dragon fruit plants. These plants want to grow as a ground vine so they are propped up. With the season over when we visited, the staff was cutting back the huge plants (very cactus looking) so not much fruit to check out. In addition to the pink/red variety that is most commonly found in stores we saw a young fruit from a yellow variety. They also cultivate and harvest bananas and have papaya, banana and taro plantings as well as beautiful flowering trees and shrubs. The farm tour is an easy walk with slightly uneven ground. Kids might enjoy their zipline or huge water ball. www.MauiDragonFruit.com. (808) 264-6127
KAANAPALI – Westin’s new Nanea Ocean Villas is opening ahead of schedule. They are located on 16 oceanfront acres of North Ka`anapali Beach. The word “Nanea” means relaxation. The 390 villa resort offers one, two and three bedroom villas. Their culture director is Makalapua Kanuha, and the Pu`uhonua O Nanea Cultural Center will be the heart of the resort. It will honor local history, music, dance, art and function as an educational center. www.westinanea.com
If you have a large family you know how difficult it is to find restaurant dining that is suitable. The ‘Ohana Table at the Sheraton affords groups and families the opportunity to enjoy dinner as a shared meal. The share-table dining accommodates eight to ten in their Black Rock Kitchen, with open air dining and a view of the bridges, pools and Pu`u Keka`a (often referred to as “Black Rock.” You need to make a 24 hour advance registration. Check their menu out online. There is only one O`hana seating nightly. You will get a salad, starter, two entrees and two desserts served family style for $89 per person plus tax and tip. Beverages are extra. By the way, those of you who are kamaaina can enjoy a 20% off food at the Black Rock Kitchen)! Check out www.sheratonmaui.com (808) 662-8059
NAPILI – Beach Bums BBQ and Island Grill has a location in Napili Plaza in what, long ago, was Koho’s. They focus on bbq fare that includes bbq beef or pork, and drunken chicken. They have another location on the water in Ma`alaea. A great spot to get lunch or dinner after an ocean excursion out of the Harbor at Ma`alaea.
KAHULUI / WAILUKU / WAIEHU – Sad news for thrift store lovers with the closure of Savers in Kahului. They will no longer have a store but will continue a business relationship with Big Brothers Big Sisters of Maui. Donations will be accepted at drop off pods around the island, at the Wal-Mart in Kahului, Napili Plaza, the YMCA and other locations. These donations will be shipped to other Savers locations on other islands but the money will remain on Maui to assist the nonprofits.
The proposed closure of Waiehu Municipal Golf Course was recently announced. The golf course opened in 1920 and is popular for island residents, and in particular seniors or beginning golfers. The eighteen holes are spread along a stunning coastline and just a few miles from Wailuku. Recently Mayor Arakawa stated that it is operating at a $3 million loss. Island residents spoke up very clearly about the proposed closure. Just to put this in perspective, the Waiehu course (high season) charges residents $20 weekdays and $25 weekends for 18 holes and twilight play is discounted to $15 (after 1pm) or play 9 holes for $5. Military and juniors have additional discounts. Non-residents play $50 for 18 holes, $40 for twilight and $20 for nine holes. Course prices are even less during low season. Compare this to a round of golf at the Kapalua Bay Course for $275 or Plantation Course for $325. Even a ride along person on a cart is $45 at Kapalua. Ka`anapali’s golf course is currently listed discounted online at $169 for regular play on 18 holes. (Online it did not list ka`amaina (resident) prices for either course but pretty sure it is not much of a discount.) One comment on the Waiehu closure mentioned that the county spends more on parks (which provide no revenue) than on the golf course. Another mentioned that the course needed some updating to promote it more to tourists/visitors and to improve the online reservation system allowing golfers to book out farther than two days. Also voiced was an increase in green fees which would still keep it affordable. More to be heard on this topic! The Mayor also announced a property tax increase of 7% and residential refuse collection will increase from $6 to $30 a month.
UPCOUNTRY – Recently I visited Haliimaile Distillery nestled on the slopes of Haleakala and surrounded by pineapple fields. An old Quonset hut houses their distillery and it is an iconic building. I was amazed at the variety of products made by this family owned and operated small batch distillery. The LeVecke’s began as a father-son team with a desire to produce fine spirits on Maui. They searched for a master distiller and found the perfect match in Mark Nigbur from Colorado. Pau Maui Vodka is their flagship brand and is made from pineapples. The sweet Maui fruit is perfect for fermenting and there are plenty of sunny days plus great soil to produce ripe sweet pineapples every 18 months. The first year the plants produce a very small but super sweet fruit. The subsequent two years you get a larger fruit and then they are replanted. Don Francisco de Paula y Marin is credited for bringing the first pineapple to Hawai`i from Paraguay in 1813. He was advisor to King Kamehameha and he also brought coffee to the islands from Brazil. The Halliimaile Distillery website explains that the “Hawaiians named the pineapple Hala Kahiki referencing its similarity in appearance to the Hala tree (Pandanus or Screwpine) and kahiki meaning from a foreign place.”
The distilling process removes the pineapple flavor so their Pau Maui Vodka has a smooth clean taste on your palate. This also makes it gluten free! They use sugar for their rum but with the recent closure of sugar production in Hawai`i, they are looking for another US source. Sammy’s Beach Bar Rum is named for rock legend Sammy Hagar and the good news is this product can be found in almost all US states. They have a map locator on their website.
They use Kentucky whiskey for the base of their Paniolo Whiskey and you’ll see rows of whiskey barrels all stamped with a big mustache. Maui gold pineapple distillate is added to the whiskey creating a uniquely flavorful island blend. The history of the paniolo begins when Kamehameha was gifted with the first (long horned) cattle in 1809 by Captain George Vancouver. Just a few years prior the first horses had arrived. A ban (or kapu) was put on the cattle to allow their numbers to increase and indeed they did until 1830 with the kapu was lifted. The herd grew to 25,000 head of wild cattle and they needed experienced help. About 1832 Mexican vaqueros, dubbed Paniolo, came to Hawai`i. As a result, Hawai`i has had a long and successful history filled with cowboy traditions. The island horses were called “lio” by the Paniolo. Today’s Spanish dictionary translates “lio” as meaning confusion, mess, hassle and trouble.
The Maui Moon line of products are island-inspired flavored vodkas such as hibiscus, pineapple orange (this would go great with POG) or chocolate macadamia nut, all bottled in an eye-catching Tiki shaped bottle.
I think their gin surprised me the most. It is the first gin ever made on Maui and the newest product in their line. While gin was produced in the islands since 1916 this product is strikingly different. They begin with eleven fragrant botanicals and during the tour a glass jar is passed showing the assortment of spices they use. You can smell the cardamom and lavender along with a citrus scent. They distill the product by first soaking the botanicals to infuse the flavor and this is done in glass. They describe the scent as “very aromatic like a fresh cut floral bouquet” and “reminiscent of walking through a forest after spring rain.” I think I would agree with the latter. My traveling partner is a gin fan and she went wild over this spirit. Really nothing like it! Its name is inspired by sailors who would dock in Honolulu and visit Nu`uanau Street in the downtown area looking for bars. It was known in that day as FID Street … hence the gin’s namesake “FID Street.” I love the inspiration they have gotten from history for all their products.
The tour includes three sample tastes and it is difficult to choose which to try. All of their products are on sale at the distillery along with cute distillery inspired gifts. Add this tour to your day in upcountry. Book your tour online at www.haliimailedistilling.com. Tours are Monday – Friday and last 30-45 minutes. The cost is $10 for adults and children 12 and under
MAKAWAO – The Makawao Steak House has a new owner, Hoku Nui Maui. They are creating a farm-to-table restaurant with locally grown meat and produce supplied by their own farm. They currently have a ranch located near St. Joseph Catholic Church with 250 head of cattle plus chicken and sheep that are all free range. They plan on eventually growing fruit trees and vegetables but in the meantime, will use locally sourced products. The restaurant will retain its current name.
MAALAEA – The Maui Ocean Center’s restaurant, Seascape Ma`alaea, is making this location a destination for dinner on Saturdays and Sundays. The dinner menu includes plenty of seafood but also mauka (from the land) entrees such as chicken, ribs, and steak. Entertainment on the weekends and dinner 5-9pm. Lunch is still available daily 10:30pm-3pm. It has a great view overlooking the ocean and harbor. 192 Ma`alaea Road, (808) 270-7068.
KIHEI -- D.K. (of Sansei fame) has a new spot in Kihei called Shearwater Tavern that is located in a section of the former Stella Blue restaurant. This chef has more than sushi up his sleeve! At this gastropub you’ll find a very innovative menu with lots of details and creativity in each meal. They opened at the beginning of the year and it’s proving, yet again, that D.K. knows how to please! How can you beat entrees that are under $20? Check out the southern fried chicken and brie sandwich, truffle mac and cheese, Brussels sprouts (yes - not Brussel but Brussels – who knew?) char grilled romaine, oven roasted bone marrow, or smoked turkey leg. Select from among plenty of craft beers to enjoy with your meal. Happy Hours 5-6 pm daily and weekends 10pm-midnight . Happy Hour features half price veggies and appetizers and $2 off craft cocktails and draft beer. Entertainment nightly too!!! (808) 793-2324. Open 5-10pm (later on weekends). Note: The restaurant is named for a sea bird, the Shearwater, which lives at sea but comes to the same burrow on land every year for nesting. One of their breeding areas is in Kihei!
WAILEA -- The Hawaiian Room at the Grand Wailea is home to Amy Hanaiali`i Gilliom, a successful singer-songwriter. The program features songs thru the decades including Waikiki circa 1930s, and New York in the 1940s. Her range includes Hawaiian, pop, jazz, blues. Tickets $50-150 with two shows on Fridays and Saturdays. 5pm reception and 6pm show or 8pm reception and 9pm show. www.hawaiianroomshow.com. (808) 793-2488.
MISCELLANEOUS – The Maui Humane Society has announced that the Wings of Aloha Ride-Alongs are back!!! If you are flying to Portland, Oregon or Seattle, Washington on Alaska Airlines you can allow a Wings of Aloha pet to fly on your ticket! This program was on hiatus when I was on Maui but I encourage all you dog lovers to take advantage of this priceless opportunity. My own dog, Bleu, came from Maui to a local animal rescue and we met at a Petsmart during one of their adoption days. This program reduces the cost that Maui Humane has to pay by allowing a pet to fly, in essence, as part of your baggage. There is no cost to you and virtually no inconvenience. You register as far in advance with Maui Humane as possible. There may or may not be a dog(s) that match your schedule but if there are then they meet you at the airport upon check in. The dogs are in kennels and, while nervous, have no idea about the wonderful adventure that awaits them. On the other end when you land volunteers are waiting for you in baggage claim to whisk the pups to their foster homes for a health check before they are put up for adoption. Call Maui Humane at (808) 877-3680 or check the link below which takes you to their website. If you can’t help be a dog courier … then they will welcome a donation to their efforts! http://www.mauihumanesociety.org/content/503d4d068ec8a/Wings_of_Aloha_-_Program_Description.html
And if you are on Maui and missing your own pup, consider a beach buddy day. A limited number of dogs are allowed to be checked out for a day to head to the beach. It’s hoped that they might meet a future loving family. This program is SO popular that even three months before my trip all the slots were full! Here is the link!
http://www.mauihumanesociety.org/content/55023e863f81e/Beach_Buddies_Visitor_Program.html
I just love that the folks on the Pride of Maui sailing excursion share their Maui passions. This site will take you to their favorite food trucks! Keep in mind that since they are on wheels … the status of the location may have changed! I’ve had some great meals and looking forward to trying more on my next trip!
http://www.prideofmaui.com/blog/maui/maui-food-trucks.html
Maui County public hospitals will become private Kaiser Permanente facilities by mid 2017.
The Maui Liquor Control Commission signed in a new law to allow liquor to be sold in retail locations 24 hours a day. Previously in supermarkets and liquor stores there was an 11pm cut off for liquor sales.
LANA`I – It’s hard not to fall instantly in love with this island. This is a private island that has had a fascinating history. It was known as the “Pineapple Island” after it was purchased in 1922 by James Dole, however, as the decades passed it was harder to compete with other countries in pineapple production. The island turned to focus on tourism and the Lodge at Koele and Manele Bay Resort along with several golf courses set the backdrop for a new era in Lana`i History. In 2012, Larry Ellison purchased the 140 square mile island for a reported figure around $500-600 million. The island’s two major hotels were closed. Manele enjoyed a $450 million facelift that took eight months. Koele remains closed but optimistically will reopen for tourism in late 2018. The Koele golf course is also closed. The transformation was thoughtfully done, not only to the Manele Bay resort location but to the small town of Lana`i City. Ellison has freshened up the town and even restored the 90-year old two-screen movie theater. A fan of movies, Ellison is expected to begin a documentary film festival on Lana`i in 2017.
The Four Seasons Resort Lana’i reopened in early 2016 after a massive remodel. Their 236 rooms were reduced to 217 to provide for larger accommodations. They have some crazy wonderful amenities! The in-room IPAD can make dinner or spa reservations, put you in contact with the tennis clinic or the golf course, and let you read the current magazines and newspapers. The automatic window shades allow you to soak in the amazing vistas or darken down the room for a mid-day nap. Is the game on? No worries, you won’t miss any of it with a tv hidden in the bathroom mirror!
DINING -- On property there is a fine selection of dining options. The highly acclaimed Nobu Lana`i is open for dinner and showcases the innovative Japanese cuisine of Chef Nobu Masahisa. You’ll enjoy fresh sushi selections, small and large plates using the freshest island ingredients or reserve a teppanyaki table. Dinner only 6pm-9pm
Malibu Farm features casual poolside dining and of course locally sourced ingredients. You have a beautiful view of Hulopoe Bay. We tried the coconut curry and it was outstanding. The mahi mahi entrée was the best seafood plate I had during my two weeks in the islands! This open air dining facility serves lunch daily 11am-4:30pm as well as sunset cocktails and pupus 4:30pm-6:30pm.
Another fine dining option is at the One Forty located on the lower level. They are rated as a Four Diamond AAA restaurant and make great use of their ocean view. Enjoy dining on the best fresh local foods. They specialize in steak and seafood and serve dinner 6-9pm. Breakfast is served 6:30am-11am. Dress is casual for all the resort restaurants.
The Sports Bar and Grill is perfect for those who want lunch or dinner at non-traditional hours. Open 11am – 10:30pm this casual open air bar and restaurant also affords those panoramic ocean vistas. There are table games or enjoy sports programs on the restaurant’s big screens. Whether it is a delicious burger, some cioppino made with local fish, or a hearty salad made from locally grown ingredients, the selection should suit everyone.
Nearby is The Views at Manele Golf Course. This cliff side restaurant serves complimentary pastries, fruit and coffee to golfers preparing to tee off. Golfers and non-golfers can enjoy a light lunch 11am-3pm. All this wonderful food and sunshine can leave a vacationer exhausted. No worries -- just check yourself into the resort spa for some pampering. Any service you can think of is available for nails, hair and body with their signature products. Serves can also be provided at the private adult-only swimming pool. They feature a full fitness center with a variety of classes including yoga and meditation.
CHILDREN’S ACTIVITIES -- The resort offers a fabulous, and complimentary, “Kids For All Seasons” program for children ages 5- 12 years. The program is focused on learning about and appreciating Lana`i and the Hawaiian Islands. Kids will learn about the spirit of aloha by way of indoor and outdoor activities. Daytime activities might include the exploration of tide pools, trekking about the resort to explore the koi fishponds and waterfalls, learning a traditional Hawaiian game, or lei making. No reservations are required, although seasonal evening activities do require a reservation. Evening activities might include a karaoke contest, stargazing, a Hawaiian Party or a Keiki luau. (Note: Children under 5 are welcome but they must be accompanied by an adult and have a documentation showing their age.)
There is a plethora of activities on the island for those who are wanting to get out and explore. Or enjoy wonderful pools, beachside lounges and hotel amenities if you are more inclined to just relax on the property.
AIR – See Lana`i from a birds-eye view aboard a helicopter. Have you always wanted to fly a plane? Then check into a private flying lesson.
VOLUNTOURISM – Did you know Lana`i has a cat sanctuary? Over 500 cats and kittens live in an open air facility. You can help the Kokua Project by helping to paint kitty condos or enjoying playtime with the residents. And yes … they are available for adoption!
WATER – There are seasonal whale watching excursions and year round you can enjoy scuba, snorkeling or snuba. The fisherman in the family will love the opportunity to try out some deep sea fishing in these warm coastal waters. Four Seasons Resort Lana`i also supports Dolphin SMART. A program that promotes stewardship and you can join in the fun aboard a boat to do some dolphin watching. The spinner dolphins are fun-loving creatures that will show off with their above water acrobatics.
LAND– Some incredibly diverse activities will tempt the visitor to Lana`i. Practice your aim with sporting clays that can be launched to simulate a duck, dove, pheasant or quail or even hopping rabbits! The 14 station course will challenge an experienced shooter or beginners can try out this sport and even take advantage of private instruction. All equipment is provided along with guidelines for gun safety and shooting etiquette.
Become a paniolo (Hawaiian Cowboy) as you saddle up to explore the hills around Koele. This was once a large ranch and there are trails where you might even spot an axis deer, a mouflon sheep or wild turkeys. They can accommodate riders with various levels of experience and custom tours or private lessons are available. You can even team up with a wrangler for an advanced ride! There is plenty of open space to be enjoyed on horseback!
A resort shuttle will transport you to your various island activities or you can rent a Jeep thru the resort and explore some of the island’s landmarks. The roads are dirt and rutted so the ride is as much a part of the adventure as the destination! Check online for prices but the rooms generally start at $900/night and an assortment of suites move up the price scale. You can enjoy a full tour of the resort at their website: http://www.fourseasons.com/lanai/destination/
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