Vol. 34 No. 2 – Spring 2018

Vol. 34 No. 2 – Spring 2018

Editor: Christie Stilson

LAHAINA -- You can’t get a closer beach experience for a luau than the Feast of Lele, a Polynesian Feast and Show. Each course is accompanied by entertainment from different parts of Polynesia. The first course features Hawai`i with kalua pork, lomi lomi salmon and kalo (taro) puree.  The second is in honor of Aotearera, (now known as New Zealand) home of the Maori people. For this course you will enjoy island scented braised short ribs and a medley of mushrooms and sweet potato.  The third course showcases Tahiti with grilled mango ginger chicken and a Poisson cru which is island fish and vegetables marinated in coconut milk and lime juice. The fourth course takes you to Samoa with vigorous dancing including a fire knife dance and your accompanying course is braised coconut corned beef with baked ulu (breadfruit). But save room for dessert! Note that the menu may change daily. Check them out at feastatlele.com (808) 667-5353. They are located at 505 Front Street in Lahaina.

Island Bowling has opened (temporarily) in the former Hard Rock Café at the Outlets of Maui on Front Street. They are on a short term lease that ends in June with a potential for extending to August. This bowling alley is going to take the young folks by surprise with no automated pin reset. That’s right … “It’s old school” they joked in a recent article. There will also be a video game area. There are three lanes plus a keiki lane for kids 5-12 years. Admission is $5 (4 and under free) and each game is $10 for bowlers 12 and over and $5 for those kids 5-11 years. The center is open Sunday to Thursday noon – 9pm and until 10pm on Friday and Saturday. They are looking for new location once their lease expires. (808) 298-0709.

Alchemy Maui is a small café up on Kupuohi Street (the road across from Safeway that goes up the hill). They have some outdoor seating and a nice lunch menu. They brew and serve up a huge assortment of flavorful kombucha with 14 on tap. Their deli style menu features panini sandwiches and salads. Their artisan sour dough bread is also available for sale Tuesday to Saturday. Open Monday to Friday 11am-4pm. 157 Kupuohi Street. (808) 793-2144.

Bring your appetite if you are heading to 808 Grindz for breakfast or lunch. The lines out the door will indicate you’ve found something special. This small restaurant had a location in Haiku but relocated to Lahaina. The portions are simply huge and definitely not low calorie. There are lots of moco options and the pancakes come in fun flavors like blueberry or Reese’s chocolate chips. And yes they have gluten free options! They offer a salmon Florentine and there are crab cakes for folks looking for something a little different for breakfast. You might consider sharing given with the size of their portions! 843 Waine`e Street. (808) 868-4147.  Hope to have a proper dining review for you next edition!

KAANAPALI -- Duke’s is now serving Sunday brunch 10:30am-3pm. The all-day breakfast offers loco moco, omelets, ahi benedict and banana and macnut pancakes $13-17. Other options are poke tacos ($19), crab cake, steak and lettuce wedge, ahi salad, Korean steak street tacos or Duke’s style plate lunch $19-27.

And continuing with the breakfast theme, another option is Roy’s Ka’anapali which serves breakfast daily 6-10:30am. A bit more expensive than Duke’s but some very creative preparations. The Kula pork skillet mixes spinach, Kula tomatoes, Maui onion and mozzarella cheese, or how about the new sensation – avocado toast!

I recommend pupus at Monkeypod in Whaler’s Village. This is the second Merriman restaurant in these Ka`anapali shops and they were doing some extra business with the closure of Leilani’s for renovations. For dinner it is a little expensive but all the major restaurants in the village are all seeing prices climb. (You don’t have to spend a lot to eat well … remember Joey’s restaurant is just a floor below in the unimpressive food court. Take a meal back to the condo or hotel and enjoy it on your lanai!)

The Wailele Polynesian Luau at the Westin Maui Resort and Spa begins with the traditional lei greeting and beverages allow time to see artisan craft persons at work. There is an open bar and an all you can eat dinner buffet. They end their show with what they call “Maui’s Most Extreme Fire Knife Finale.” Check them out at westinmaui.com (808) 661-2992

Yum! The Sweet Aloha Baking Company has opened at the Fairway Shops in Ka`anapali. You can enjoy breakfast muffins, banana breads, coffee cake and croissants or stop in for cookies, cakes, cupcakes and cheesecakes. Owners Anthony and Victoria Briggs also offer fresh baguettes! Previously they delivered their baked goods to coffee shops, restaurants and hotels on Maui’s west side and are delighted to have their new storefront location.

HONOKOWAI – Maui’s resorts all have lovely spas but if you are looking for a great massage and added value check out Maui Massage and Wellness. My therapist was Andrea and she listened to my concerns (injured shoulder) and went out of her way to make sure it was comfortably positioned and even applied a warm towel to the area. The massage I requested was a package for $109 and it included a head massage and a foot scrub. It was actually a full hour and not the 50-minute arrangement at some massage studios. As I walked out the door I could feel my shoulders much more relaxed and the work she did on my low back washed away the stiffness. I can't say enough about the oil head treatment and the foot scrub.  I look forward to a return visit. Maui Massage and Wellness is next to the Honokowai Market. They offer a discount if you book online. (808) 669-4500. 

KAPALUA – Maui Sugar Shop closed in Lahaina but happy times for them in Kapalua! They are now at the Pour House located next to Sansei at 700 Office Road. You can now enjoy a cocktail with one of their amazing gluten free, paleo, vegan (and can accommodate other allergens like corn) pastries or stop by and get something delicious ‘to go.’ You can also special order items including cakes. Open 4pm-11pm.

KIHEI -- Nutcharee’s has opened in Kihei at Azeka’s Makai Shopping Center. The owners previously served up great Thai food in Hana. The menu items are $11-18 range with plenty of familiar dishes with new twists. They do a green mango salad with crispy fish which sounds delicious and of course Pad Thai and Drunken Noodles which are always a good mainstay. The stir fry dishes have lots of combinations. Open daily for lunch 11am-3pm and dinner 5-9pm. (808) 633-4840 for reservation or take out.

A fun and innovative menu awaits you at Shearwater Restaurant in Kihei but they are only open for dinner nightly 5-10pm. They describe this location as a gastropub featuring comfort food and craft beer. To start your meal try some spicy pozole soup, beer braised oxtail poutine, crispy calamari or crab dip $4.95-12.95. I love that they source products locally!!! Late night happy hour every Friday and Saturday 10pm – midnight and an earlier one from 5-6pm. Pasta dishes includes shrimp scampi or farm to table pasta loaded with local vegetables. Try a Hawaiian rancher’s burger, southern fried chicken and brie sandwich or char grilled swordfish sandwich. Hand tossed pizza as well. Most items $12.95-18.95. This restaurant is under the umbrella of D.K. Komodo who also operates d.k steak house (on Oahu) and Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar in Kihei and Kapalua. (808) 793-2324. www.shearwatermaui.com  www.DKRestaurants.com Located at 1279 South Kihei Road

Maui Brewing has opened a restaurant in Kihei. You find them at 605 Lipoa where they continue to brew some delicious and creative beers and offer a tasting room. It is a fun colorful place with an industrial feel offering board games and a covered outdoor patio. Local bands play music in the evenings and instead of food trucks they have pub food like their Kahana location. The eating area is separated from the very long bar and there is lots of room for bigger groups. (808) 213-3002.

Good news for movie lovers in South Maui as Kukui Mall will not only reopen but enrich the experience. They closed back in November 2012 but the new owners recently announced their theater, Regency Kihei Luxury Cinemas, will open mid 2018. They’ll have electric reclining chairs, huge screens, improved sound system and they will offer first run movies.

WAILEA – The Andaz Maui in Wailea is part of Hyatt Hotels that is being sold. The sale will be finalized later this spring.

The Grand Wailea has also been sold to the Blackstone Group for a reported $1.1 billion. It is apparently the second highest price paid for a hotel in the US. The number one spot was $1.95 billion for the Waldorf Astoria New York which was purchased by China’s Anbang Insurance Group. The resort opened in 1991 as the Grand Hyatt and as the most expensive hotel ever built according to UPI. Room rates began at $350 a night while current prices are $659 for a mountain few room with king bed. That doesn’t include tax, the resort fee of $30 or daily valet parking at $30. While the resort did a $30 million renovation of its meeting rooms, pools and guest rooms in about 2015,  it is expected that the new owners will renovate and room rates will increase.

Hotel Wailea got top honors for Hawaiian hotels by Conde Nast Traveler in their 2017 Reader’s Choice Awards.

Remember the Shops at Wailea have their first Wednesday of the month 5:30-8pm on the upper level. And while you are there check out two new boutique clothing stores. TINA Stephens and Imrie specialize in women’s apparel.

If you’re in Wailea with your sweet tooth stop in at Sweet Paradise Chocolates at the Wailea Gateway Center. The truffles are amazing!!!! 34 Wailea Gateway Place. www.SweetParadiseChocolate.com (808) 344-1040.

KAHULUI – WAILUKU -- Yet another Shopping Center is on the horizon for Kahului. This new one will be the Ho`okele Shopping Center near the Kahului Airport. There are a significant number of empty store fronts in existing Kahului shopping centers. Many retailers have left Maui Marketplace but Barnes & Noble is relocating to that shopping center from Lahaina. They will be leasing the large space from Petco which moved to Pu`uenene Shopping Center. The new Safeway will be a big part of the new 94,000 square foot Ho`okele Shopping Center. The original Maui Safeway opened in 1983 on Kamehameha and it will close when the new store is complete. Earlier this year Alexander and Baldwin acquired the Pu`uene Shopping Center.

Aria’s was a disappointment this last trip. I love their fish with caper-butter sauce but this time there was little of the sauce and the ginger they used on the small chopped vegetables over-powered the entire dish. 2062 W. Vineyard. 2062 W. Vineyard Street. Ariasmaui.com

HAIKU – Most visitors don’t often get to Haiku but should you venture over there you might want to give The Greek Oven a try. They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner with a keiki menu as well as smoothies. Breakfast features organic egg omelets made Greek style or Greek yogurt for a lighter meal. Plenty of sandwiches, Paninis and wraps for lunch as well. The dinner service is just on Friday and Saturday nights and features classic Greek recipes. Save room for baklava made with macadamias, walnuts or almonds.

Another option is Sala Dang Thai Kitchen, located at 810 Kokomo Road in Haiku. And the neat part about this restaurant is it is located in an old plantation house. This family eatery has a nice menu with affordable prices.  (808) 575-9752

UPCOUNTRY -- The `I ‘iwi, or scarlet honeycreeper, is a beautiful bird with a red body, black tail feathers and an amazing long curved beak. (The juvenile birds are yellow with black spots.) It is estimated that there are about 600,000 of the species left in the state and while not going extinct it is threatened. About 90 percent of the population on Maui and Hawai`i Island live at an altitude of 4,000-6,000 feet. Originally the birds would have lived in lower-lying areas of Maui. Mosquitos, predators and loss of habitat forced the birds to climb to higher elevations.  Recently there was a confirmed sighting at the lavender farm with an elevation of 3,200 feet. This could be a sign that the birds are coming down to lower elevations due to over-crowding, or another theory is that there are fewer mosquitos to infect and sicken the birds during the winter months. Sightings of the birds can be reported to (808) 573-0280. To listen to the calls this bird makes you can visit www.mauiforestbirds.org

MauiWine is now doing 5 samples for $10 (used to be free) but you are reimbursed for the tasting fee if you purchase six or more bottles. You can now also purchase a glass or a bottle to sit and enjoy on the property. And to augment the wine they now also offer small cheese and meat plates. The King’s Cottage tasting room samples new offerings. Their small batch wine making means the wine selections vary. They regularly have three pineapple wines and then their Rose Ranch wines and the new white wines. They also offer Lehua which is a sweet raspberry dessert wine.  The winery is a lovely location in Ulupalakua traveling on a scenic windy road just a short drive from Pukalani. I recommend the Ulupalakua Ranch store for their DELICIOUS burgers … bison, lamb, elk, and local beef and venison plus other sandwiches and sides.

MISCELLANEOUS – Emergency measures to halt beach erosion were given to the Sands of Kahana Resort and the Ka`anapali Beach Maui. The waves at Ka`anapali have come within 20 feet of the resort’s Molokai Wing. Both properties have to remove their temporary repairs after six months or apply for special permits.

The Pacific Whale Foundation has a new whale tracker App. You can download the “Whale & Dolphin Tracker” free on the App Store and Google play. Users can record sightings with their own phones and the information is uploaded to a research database.

I’ve read about “Wisdom” over the years. In this case it isn’t a ‘what’ but a ‘whom.’ Wisdom is a Laysan albatross that was banded at a nesting site on Midway Atoll in 1956. Yes, this is not a typo. She returned yet again this year with her mate to her regular nesting area and the couple produced a single egg which hatched. It is estimated that about three million seabirds return to midway each year. The breeding pairs work together incubating a single egg for a couple of months and then caring for the chick until five months when it can forage on its own. This makes this momma bird at LEAST 67 years old.

An amazing discovery found off-shore of O`ahu. A submarine, the USS S-28, was discovered in 8,700 feet of water. The submarines sunk in 1944 during training and 49 crew members were lost. It was discovered with the help of remotely operated vehicles. The sub served during World War II and was first sent to Alaska to defend the Aleutian Islands. Salvage operations will not be possible, said Navy spokespersons, due to the depth. At the time of the accident there was no communications from the vessel and no sound of any explosion so causes have remained only speculation.

A new cookbook has been published by the local health food store “Down to Earth.” It has 40 vegetarian recipes in honor of the 40th anniversary of their store.

There is so much to be seen and enjoyed on Maui but mobility impaired travelers are at a huge disadvantage. Now Maui Mobility Systems offers use of 4 wheel electric scooter for excursions. Not only do they rent wheelchairs, walkers and scooters but they also offer ScootXursions which are day trips to the Maui Tropical Plantation Tuesdays), Lahaina Front Street (Thursdays) and the Maui Swap Meet (Saturdays). (808) 661-9000. www.scootexcursions.com

Kudos to Maui restaurants! AAA has given their top 5-star diamond award to five Maui restaurants. The Banyan Tree at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua; Spago at our Seasons Resort Maui in Wailea; The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea; The Mill House at the Maui Tropical Plantation in Waikapu; and One Forty at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai.

The new airport parking structure has been moving along in typical Maui time.  The new solar powered tram will soon take visitors from the terminal to the car rental facility. The tram will run in a continual loop. The four car tram will have an additional second tram potentially added during busy periods .The cost of this project ($340 million) is funded by that customer facility charge that shows up on your rental car bill. If weather cooperates they expect to open May 2019. The main structure should be finished by the end of 2018 and the car rental agencies then have about six months to renovate their areas. Work also continues on the general parking lot which is expected to be finished spring 2018.

O`AHU – In previous newsletter editions we’ve talked about a short vacation from your vacation. You could enjoy a long weekend on The Big Island or Kaua`i or an overnight or even day trip to Lana`i! While there is no longer ferry service to Moloka`i, you can enjoy the peaceful quiet of this island with a short plane ride. Instead we determined to check out the hustle and bustle of O`ahu and Waikiki.

If you are staying in West Maui it is literally a hop, skip and jump to get to the “Kapalua Airport” (which is really in Kahana in my opinion) and head to any of the other islands. We’ve mentioned before about adding a short vacation onto your vacation and this year we chose O`ahu. It had been many years since either of us had visited and we had a ‘to do’ list planned well in advance.  The small airport terminal does have parking at $15/day so we took an Uber. It’s very quick to check in and get to the gate. You don’t have to put your liquids in quart bag etc. so we had small carry-ons that were free to check if they are less than 15 pounds on Mokulele. The tickets were about $75 each way when we purchased them. We figure we gained a half a day by not having to drive to Kahului, pay to park a car or take a shuttle, and deal with the long lines for TSA.

Among the highlights of our three days on O`ahu was an around-the-island drive. We opted to go by private car so we could stop as we chose. The drive tour began the night before when we purchased an app for $6.99 called GyPSy. And it was well worth the money. The only difficulty was getting out of Waikiki due to a parade for Martin Luther King Day. Once we were out of the congestion the voice came on and started directing us around the route. It uses your phone’s GPS and as you approach a point of interest it is triggered to provide information. We had intended to head toward Hanauma Bay and go around the east side but the post-parade congestion sort of determined that we would go west first. In hindsight, it is a great idea to go the opposite direction of most of those doing the island drive that day. The GPS app adapts to either direction. The only part of it of the GyPSy program that we didn’t care for were the descriptions of places that sounded great and as we got to the entrance gate THEN it told us there was admission. This should have been mentioned much earlier. So we did do a couple of turn-arounds at places we might have enjoyed seeing if it was free but really not interested enough to pay admission. Once on the road the only slow areas were driving small towns that were off the main road.

We only had about eight hours of drive time so we knew there wouldn’t be time for any long stops or tours. This was going to be a “couch” tour where we just saw the areas by car. (Yes, couch as in sofa … a term we came up when traveling Europe.) 

One of the first tourist attractions in this direction is The Dole Plantation. Originally (back in the 1950s) it was a fruit stand but in the late 1980s it turned into a ‘pineapple experience’ destination. Open from 9:30am-5:30pm there are lots of tours and tastings. All the tours offer discounts for ka`amaina and military (listed are just the adult and youth admission prices). The Pineapple Express Train $10.50/8.50. The Garden Tour (which includes 8 mini gardens and concludes with a craft or other activity) $7/6.25. The Pineapple Maze $8/$6. Or buy combo packages which offer a savings. To reach them with a car you take H1 west, merge to H2 and exit 8. There are also city buses that will get you here and more information is on their website. You’ll find lots of tour buses stopping and loads of people in line for a cup of their ‘dole whip’ frozen confection. There is plenty to see in their gift shop and it is a fun place for a family to get out of the car, do a walk about and perhaps one or more of their tours. www.doleplantation.com.

One of the longer stops might be a visit to the Waimea Valley. The nature park is over 1800 acres and the main attraction is the 45-foot Waimea Falls. Hike up to the falls, which is on a paved path and less than a mile, if you have the time. There is also a non-paved section for a river hike. Many say this is one of their favorite stops around the island.

The waves were pretty terrific at Pipeline and Sunset but not remarkably high surf. A quick look at the beach and crowded parking lot and then we were back on the road.

We stopped at a roadside area that was barely marked by a sign. It wasn’t mentioned on our GPS but one of us needed some coffee! Located in Haleiwa it is Wailua’s only macadamia nut farm. It is an outdoor market with samples of flavored mac nuts (even coffee flavor) and they were the best mac nuts we’d ever had. You’ll find them on Kamehameha highway across from Haleiwa Beach Park. Daily 10am-5pm.

While we drove we peeked at some of the beach parks but we weren’t ready to make any stops until we got to Kahuku. With our late start it was now lunchtime! This is where they grow big fat delicious shrimp and there are several shrimp trucks that are happy to serve you up a plate lunch in a variety of fashions. Delicious! Tempura style and butter & garlic are a few options and then lots of picnic tables where you can sit and enjoy your meal.

Also in Kahuku is the Kahuku Farm Tour. You’ll take a tractor thru the farm and learn about the people and history of this area. Tours are Friday at 2pm and last about an hour so you definitely have to plan this in advance. Adults $32, children 5-12 $22 and under 4 free. Their smoothie tour is 30 minutes and available Monday and Wednesday at 1pm cost $15 adults, children $14.

If you missed the other Macadamia Nut Farm stop you will have a second chance in Kanehoe. Tropical Farms Macadamia Nut Farm grows their nuts on O`ahu and there are lots of free samples as well as sundry souvenir items. Admission to the farm is free. They also have a farm tour that lasts about one hour. The guide will tell you about the history of the area and you’ll sample some fresh picked fruit off the trees. They are open 7 days a week 9:30am-5pm.

You might have reservations for the luau at the Polynesian Cultural Center. If so you’ll find this located where the tour turns at the top of O`ahu. This enterprise is run by the Mormon Church so you’ll see their temple. The least expensive option is $69.95 (adult) general admission which includes a visit around the 42-acre center. There is a choice of prime rib or Island buffet and prices for admission and dinner start at $89.95 adults.  Private guide and transportation to the luau and tour of the grounds is $239.95 adults.

Now the road will start heading south. If you don’t stop you’ll continue to view Chinaman’s Hat, a very interesting rock formation that you may have seen on your flight over to O`ahu.

Kualoa Ranch is another good stop to stretch your legs, tour thru their gift shop or get a quick bite or beverage. It is a popular movie location so you’ll find many products fashioned with themes with Godzilla, Lost and Jurassic Park on them. If you are interested in adventure there are a plethora of activities available here. An eBike Adventure ($130), Jurassic Valley Zipline ($160), Secret Island Beach ($46), Multi-Psgr Raptor ATV ($85), one hour horseback ride ($85) and longer rides available. There I also the Jurassic Jungle Experience ($46), Movie Sites and Premier Movie Sites (46-120), Catamaran sail ($46), and Fishpond, fruit and garden tour (where you’ll sale on Moli`i loko fishpond on a catamaran ($46). There website has all the details www.kauloa.com

Byodo-In Temple turn off appeared quickly around a turn in the road. This is a very impressive spot and it has also been used in TV and movie filming. As you enter you can purchase flowers as this is a huge memorial garden. This was one of those stops that were not mentioned as having an admission on GyPSy. General admission to the grounds is $5 for 13-64 years of age, $4 for seniors, and 2-12 youth are $2. They only accept cash. The temple is a replica of the Byodo-in Temple of Uji in Kyoto which was built in 1052. The Hawaiian version was constructed in the 1960s. We spotted a couple of cats and thought that was ‘cute’ until we started seeing swarms of cats. It must be happy living here in the cemetery for hundreds and hundreds of feral cats judging by those we saw.  Some were basking in the sun and others stretched out in the shade. It explains why we saw water bowls at the entrance gate. Some lovely views and the temple is a non-denominational sanctuary. www.byodo-in.com

Up next are some beautiful beaches. Kailua Beach is long with sugar colored stretches of sandy beach. Not too far from Waikiki it was loaded with locals enjoying this Monday holiday. I’d definitely trek back here for a beach day! Mokaapu`u is another picture perfect beach where you can view Manana Island (uninhabited) or stop at Sea Life Park or the Makapu`u Point Lighthouse. Hanauma Bay is much quieter late in the day but still loaded with folks checking out the snorkeling.

For a quick day tour of the island, a self-guided drive  tour was the perfect option for us. There are plenty of bus excursions but they are not inexpensive. Splitting the cost of gas and a rental car proved pretty affordable.  If we’d gotten a little earlier start we might have had time for more sightseeing stops. But as it was we had a flavor of the rest of the island. We headed towards Waikiki with thoughts of where on this island we’d like to return to visit and more importantly … where we were going to go for dinner!

With parking in Waikiki limited, we returned the rental car and chose to see the rest of the island with the help of Uber. Our hotel was in the east part of Waikiki near the zoo. We were able to easily walk but there is a parking lot if you have a car. The Honolulu Zoo is not large but I’m really fond of visiting zoos. I wish we didn’t have to have them but since we do I want to support their efforts. You could spend part of a day at the zoo or make a quick tour around in an hour for a pleasant walk. There is a large children’s area that we skipped having forgotten to borrow a child to bring along. Today the zoo has over 900 animals in various ‘regional’ locations such as the African Savana. Admission is $19 for adults, $11 for children with ka`amaina and military discounts.  www.honoluluzoo.com

History is a passion for both of us and that interest took us to the Bishop Museum which recently redid their Hawai’i room. Entering this koa filled room you will be awestruck. There are stories with an open interior “courtyard” and dozens of displays on everything from poi pounders to feather capes or the making of tapa cloth. We arrived when they opened and I’d recommend that. You have plenty of room to move at your own speed and there were several docents at hand to answer questions. Guided tours are also available. We only had time for this part of the complex but there is also a science center, a building with special exhibits and movies with various Hawaiian themes.

It was a bit of an Uber ride to Queen Emma’s Summer Palace from Waikiki but well worth it. (Or you might add this stop in your around-the-island drive.) I just love seeing historical homes! Emma Kalanikaumaka Kaleleonalani Na`ea Rook became Queen Emma, consort upon her marriage to King Kamehameha IV. She lived 1836-1885. This is a small group guided tour that happens on the hour. They are open a limited number of hours each day so check the times so you don’t miss this scenic and historic landmark. This beautiful home is so very peaceful and serene and lovely place the royal family could come for some quiet.  The docent did an excellent and informative tour and I enjoyed just sitting the porch and wandering the garden for a spell. Visitors need to be able to climb the front stairs, or inquire about alternative arrangements for those with mobility issues. The Summer Palace is administered by the Division of State Parks but under the management of the Daughters of Hawai`i. They also manage the Hulihe`e Palace on The Big Island. General admission $10, $8 for seniors, ka`amaina and military. $1 for children. (One of the few places offering senior discounts!) Be sure to make a reservation online.  www.queenemmasummerpalace.

Continuing in our historical adventure on O`ahu we visited Iolani Palace. This landmark requires some planning.  It’s pretty simple, however, to go online and purchase a ticket and your ticket entrance time. There are tours guided by a docent available Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday 9am-10am and Friday and Saturday between 9am and 11:15am departing every 15 minutes. Cost is $21.75 adults $6 youth. Or choose the 45-minute audio tour that has more availability throughout the day for $14.75/$6. We opted for the self-guided version. You are set up with a headset and small device that guides you around the house. As you enter a room you will hear a bit about the room and perhaps some of the artifacts. Then you have the option to ‘hear more’ or continue to the next room. What a great idea to allow those of us curious for more to be able to continue our education. The spacing of the entrances allowed us to move easily around the house with no crowds. One interesting fact is that the palace had electricity four years before the White House! King Kamehameha IV was interested in all that was new in the United States and Europe and he even met with Thomas Edison about his new contraption. The bathrooms give one pause as they were very sophisticated with fancy shower heads, tubs and flush toilets as well as bidets. At the end of the audio tour you are free to explore the visitor center in the downstairs and see the facilities for the staff. www.iolanipalace.org

Be sure to find your way by Uber, car or walking to Side Inn, a local restaurant. They served enormous portions and have an interesting local menu. TV screens show sporting events and it means that people linger. We were lucky to get a table for two without a reservation. Most items pretty affordable but the kalbi ribs were terrific albeit pricey!  And nearby is Leonard’s, one of the best places to go for hot malasadas. (Sort of a donut with no hole and sometimes filled with something yummy). We opted for warm malasadas covered with cinnamon and sugar. There is almost always a line out the door but it moves fast and additional pastry options to consider as you wait in line. We went quite late (about 9pm) and they were selling malasadas as fast as they came out of the fryer. Smells are pretty wonderful too. 933 Kapahulu Avenue. Hours every day 5:30am-11pm.

An aside is that when we were leaving the Maui condo at 8:30 for a 10am flight we stopped in to tell the office we would be gone for a few days. This was the non-missile attack day and it proved, thankfully, to be stressless for us. Turning on our phones I had the message and said “WAIT” as I read it. The receptionist already knew it had been cancelled so our panic was short lived. My phone never did get the recall message and Francine’s phone never got the original or follow up message. We did hear some interesting stories on O`ahu from our Uber driver and others during that terrifying 30+ minute event. One story was of a room-mate calling her mom and sobbing for 12 minutes saying goodbye. (They were told they had 14 minutes.) People putting children down manholes was about the most disturbing tale we heard. However restaurants shoeing people out into the streets was pretty horrifying and must have just added to the chaos. At least one man drove 130mph to try and get home before the blast while others decided to start their mimosa’s early or just enjoy one last cup of coffee. It did bring to the forefront the realization that the islands were not prepared for this.  They may have plans for tsunami’s but a missile threat with thousands of tourists and nobody having a clue about strategy.

The Maui Update is available by subscription. The quarterly publication is $10 annually by email or $15 by snail mail. Paradise Publications, 8110 SW Wareham, Portland, OR 97223. Email: Paradyse@comcast.net

Vol. 35 No. 1 – Winter 2019

Vol. 34 No. 1 – Winter 2018